Florida Keys History

Memorial Celebrates 60th Anniversary
By Irving R. Eyster*

It has been over 60 years since the dedication of the hurricane monument, which marks a dark day in Keys history. It was constructed in memory of those who lost their lives in the most powerful storm ever to strike this area. The Labor Day hurricane of September 2, 1935, with winds of 200 mph and a storm tide of 18 feet destroyed everything in its path. Homes were splintered or washed away, the railway was pronounced dead and over 500 people were killed that night. This monument is in memory of the veterans who were building bridges to replace the ferry, the people who lived here, visitors and railway employees who lost their lives that fateful night.

The veterans were stationed at three camps, one on Windley Key at Snake Creek, and two on Lower Matecumbe, one at each end of the island. The monument, built of Keys coral limestone is 65 feet long by 20 feet wide. The crypt bears a plaque reading "Dedicated to the memory of the civilians and war veterans whose lives were lost in the hurricane of September 2, 1935."

Forty men worked building this monument at a cost of $12,000. It was sponsored by the Monroe County Commissioners and the school board that furnished the property. People came from all over Florida, Washington, D.C., and other cities for the dedication. Over 800 cars were parked near the monument and people in government, mayors from many cities, the military forces, Boy & Girl Scouts, lodges and legions were all represented. It had been the intention to hold the dedication on Armistice Day, November 11, but that would have been on Thursday, so the event was postponed until Sunday, November 14.

The dedication began at 12:30 with the masting of colors as 4,000 people looked on. The WPA Symphony orchestra played Verde's Aida and the invocation was given by Rev. J. Yancy of the Matecumbe Methodist Church. Then led by Mrs. Charles Moon of Coral Gables, the audience sang America. Mr. O.A. Sandquist, district director of the WPA introduced Col. P.J. O'Shaughnessy, chairman of the program, who explained the purpose of the ceremony. He pointed out that the 270 people living in the area, 167 were missing.

Dr. John Tigert, president of the University of Florida, read a telegram from President Franklin Roosevelt. It read, "I join in the dedication of the monument to those who met death in the awful visitation that swept the Florida Keys on Labor Day, 1935. The disaster which made desolate the heart of so many of our people brought a personal sorrow to me because some years ago, I knew many residents of the Keys. I tender to all whose hearts were torn by the loss of loved ones an assurance of heart-felt sympathy." Dr. Tigert then claimed this site, in the public's eye, belongs with the green hills of Gettysburg, the quite woods of Shilo or maybe more appropriately with historic Johnstown or Galvenston. He then introduced Fay Marie Parker, only 9 years old, who pulled a cord unveiling the monument, revealing the stone scupture of the hurricane winds and palms bending in the 200 mile per hour winds and at the bottom the top of the 18 foot tidal waves.. The Russell family survivors presented a wreath in memory of the 50 family members they lost. After the benediction, the audience sang the Star Spangled Banner. After 60 years, this monument, like some of us, is showing its age and needs some repairs. The Matecumbe Historical Trust has been restoring this structure and should have it completed soon.

Flagler's Railroad and the 1935 Hurricane

Perhaps only Flagler knew his true reasons for building the Key West Extension of the railroad. This was no overnight decision. He spent years figuring routes through the Everglades and over the open waters leading to Key West. Construction had barely begun on the project in 1906 with an estimated cost of fifty million dollars and five years of labor. At one point in 1907, twenty-five hundred men were employed. Wages were $1.25 a day including room and board. They also received free hospitalization. Working conditions were worse than expected, air was the only thing that was plentiful. Water, food, clothing and shelter were all brought in by barge. Every building material and tool was also on float in the Keys for the railroad project.

January 21, 1912 was the completion date for the Key West Extension. With Henry Flagler's health failing, the crew worked day and night to fulfill his final wish. On January 22, 1912 Flagler found himself in his private rail car, Rambler, traveling the Key West Extension that he lived to see come true. In May of 1913, with his project now complete, Henry M. Flagler passed away. From 1912 through 1935 the Key West Extension rolled strong. Even in the hard times (1931), there was one departure and arrival from Key West daily. This was at a time when a Key Wester could go round trip to Miami for $4.75!

By mid 1935, an estimated fifty million passengers had already taken the 156 mile journey through the Florida Keys. On September 2, 1935, with a hurricane close by and heading for the Keys, a locomotive and several baggage cars were assembled for the race against time. In Homestead, the engineer decided to move the locomotive to the rear of the train . This would allow a faster escape from the Keys. Waves were already washing over the tracks as the train approached Islamorada. As soon as the train stopped, families began boarding. The stop in Homestead, however, proved fatal. Within minutes a title surge of more than 17 feet swept over the train and island of homes, sweeping most out to sea. In the days to follow, more than five hundred bodies were found. No one will ever know the exact number of lives lost on that day. After twenty-three years of service, Henry Flagler's railroad died at sea during the great hurricane of 1935.

Local Shipwrecks
By Irving R. Eyster*

Most everyone is interested in our shipwrecks scattered on the ocean bottom, those that tore apart on the coral reefs or were tossed on the shallow flats and sandbars. Our area has many of these; some were treasure ships returning to Spain with their holds bulging with Inca gold, Maya and Aztec treasures, and those from the Orient, loaded at Vera Cruz.

Among the 18 lost in the hurricane of 1733, at least 10 were destroyed between Tavernier Creek and Long Key. The 18 were ships of the Spanish Armada, which were accompanied by as many as 40 other ships.

The San Jose, a large 40 cannon galleon lies in 30 feet of water off Tavernier Creek and was the center of one of the first court cases between the state and salvagers (Tom Gurr). Dr. Mendel Peterson of the Smithsonian helped Tom recover over 2,000 artifacts for the museum.

The galleon El Capitana el Rubi Segundo met its death on the reefs of Hens and Chickens. This was Don Rodriga de Torres’ flagship leading the flota to its demise. Reggie Roberts found the Capitana while fishing and told Art McKee of seeing a cannon. Art found a 1721 coin. After writing the Spanish archives, he received a map showing the 1733 wrecks. He took tourists to this site and salvaged several others. Art opened the first treasure museum (now Treasure Village) but paid the price of most slavers by losing his boat, the Rosalee. It too rests near the Capitana.

The Chaves, a smaller ship resting just off Snake Creek at Windley Key, has many names as Chaves was its captain. In the Spanish archives, it goes under the name of Carmen. The galleon, Tres Puentes, lies between Snake Creek and Whale Harbor. Silver ingots were recovered from this wreck in the 1950’s. The Herrera, as it is known today, was the Nuestra Senora de Belen y San Antonio de Padua. You can see why it is called the Herrera after its captain. It lies in about 20 feet of water off Whale Harbor. This was an English built 242 ton galleon and is known as the Figuren wreck as many ceramic figures of fish, animals and humans were recovered. There were also piles of animal hides, ceramic bowls, two jugs, porcelain and olive jars.

The La Balardra que Yua ala Florida or La Florida, as it is known today is off the upper end of Islamorada.

The San Pedro, a galleon, came to rest in about 18 feet of water one mile off Indian Key. This ship carried the entire shipment of pieces of one, or one real coins. This site became the states second underwater park in 1989. Many of the ballast stones were removed early in 1979 to create a wreck in John Pennekamp State Park.

The galleon, Terri is usually referred to as the El Lerri, is in about 18 feet of water off the middle of Lower Matecumbe. I remember seeing a large anchor and several cannons on this site in the 1950’s. The anchor is deteriorating in front of a dive shop at Venetion Shores.

In the waters off Craig Key is the San Francisco and on the bank of Channel 5 lies the La Almiranta or the Admirals’ ship. This was also known as El Gallo and Gallo Indiana.

Of course, there are many other wrecks in this area that are not part of the 1733 Spanish fleet. Among these is the USS Alligator of the West Indian squadron under the command of Commodore David Porter. Lieutenant W.H. Allen was it’s original captain while chasing slave ships and then ridding the Caribbean, Gulf and Florida Straits of the pirates. Captain Allen was killed in a battle with pirates at Matanzas, Cuba on November 9, 1822. The fleet was passing along the Keys on November 19, 1822 when they were caught in a terrible storm and the Alligator went hard aground on the reef that bears its name today.

A British schooner, probably an inter-island trader, is wrecked off Lower Matecumbe, as was one of Flagler’s work vessels in Lignum Vitae Channel.

Near Craig lies an anchor chain over 300 feet long and near Snake Creek Channel are the remains of an old smaller ship.

Due to the hurricane of the early 1900’s, many of Flagler’s work boats, train cars, rails and buildings were washed into the sea. The truck (wheel assembly) of one of these train cars is still visible under Lignum Vitae Bridge. Another is under the Niles Channel Bridge.

*courtesy of the Upper Keys Independent newspaper.